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RangerJoe

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Reply with quote  #1 
Starting a thread here to consolidate information, data, and Q&As regarding forming .357AR cases.
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RangerJoe

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Reply with quote  #2 
Wikster (and others): I must be doing something VERY wrong with my first attempt at neck reaming Starline straight-wall brass for the .357AR.  Here is my saga:

I purchased the RCBS .35 Cal neck reamer/pilot from Midway.  BTW - these do NOT fit the RCBS Power Trim-Pro unit, nor do they fit Forster's trimmer (without modification).  The RCBS reamer only has ONE (1) cutting flute because it also serves as a pilot for RCBS's outside neck turning attachment.  I needed to thin the RCBS reamer's shaft by 0.0025" to fit into my Forster manual trimmer.

I trimmed NEW Starline brass to 1.600".  I then chucked the brass into the Forster and attempted to inside ream the brass at least deep enough to seat the (obsolete) Hornady 160gr FN-FMJ .357 bullet. 

It took ten (10) minutes of hard cranking, pushing, and frequent cleaning/lubing to prepare four (4) cases!  The first two (2) cases I was only able to ream to ~0.275" deep; I could not get the reamer to cut any deeper than that.  I ran the next two (2) cases thru a .357 Max expander, then attempted to ream.  These I was able to ream to a depth of approximately 0.380" before I couldn't go any deeper.

Spending 10 minutes to "sort of" ream 4 pieces of brass isn't a workable solution in any universe.  What am I doing wrong?

PS:  I've been reloading for well over 50 years... but have managed to avoid 98% of neck reaming and 100% of outside neck turning this entire time.  I'm not ashamed to admit I am 1) almost a novice at neck reaming, and 2) find the whole process of neck turning/reaming unpleasant.  [sneaky]


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Moleman

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Reply with quote  #3 
Get the drill adaptor.  The RCBS reamer if I remember only have one flute which will take longer than a multiflute.  Takes me longer to remove the old case, measure it and set up the next one than it does to ream the next one. If you're doing alot of them keep a little acid brush or toothbrush with case lube on it to keep the reamer running cooler. I use the drill on slow speed range. Prop up the drill so that the weight of it isn't supported on the trimmer shaft. I just mount my trimmers to a piece of 2x4 and hold them in a vise when in use. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Adapter-for-all-RCBS-case-trimmers-to-use-power-drill-instead-of-crank/141181298025?hash=item20df0fa569:g:mDgAAOSwDk5UENdc

You could likely make one drilling and tapping a long driver type bit for whatever thread pattern your trimmer handle uses. 


 forsterreamer.jpg

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Bajabusdoc

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Reply with quote  #4 
Photo of mine. 223 dilated 09 LC,  dip in light oil in shot glass. Forester has multiple flutes. And sharp is important Takes about 30 seconds hand cranking.

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wikster1983

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Reply with quote  #5 
Yep, I agree with Baja and Moleman- get the multi-fluted reamer. It's ok RJ - I may have shed one small tear at buying the forster, but I'm also shooting my rifle now. It takes about 3-4 seconds a case now- those little basterds are hot after reaming too, I need a variable speed drill. If starline keeps offering untapered brass I will never touch another piece to step neck and anneal! Even for 2 or so grains.
-This reminds me very much of what I did with the sabercat- made my own die by reverse engineering to save time and money. RJ if you really are fed up pm me and I will make yours, but lets wait to see how the chamber changes with the new reamer and throating. That was our original agreement and I will stand by it!

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Turbocavy

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Reply with quote  #6 
I had the same issue with my rcbs reamer on my forster trimmer so i made my own drill attachment.
Little bit of oil and push pretty hard while i run the drill. It does get pretty hot though.

I'm waiting for the barrel fixing and/or my starline shipment before i do much more case prep or reloading.
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WC53

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Reply with quote  #7 
Same with me and the midway reamer. It is listed as being for donut removal.. maybe it is better at that. My pro trimmer 2also has trouble holding on to the 223 case size. I have the drill adapter, but I do better by hand due to the case head issue as it wants a really slow trim rate or the case head pops out. You have to take off the trimmer and put in the adapter for the neck turning attachment for it to fit.

I did remove some of the material behind the cutting edge and it works better, but still not great. I am trying it on unsized Starline cases

Going to order the forster and be done with it.

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Bajabusdoc

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Reply with quote  #8 
Light oil...... 5wt/ ATF a quart of what ever on sale will. Last a lifetime
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Moleman

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Reply with quote  #9 
 I have a very well worn Lyman trimmer that also isn't a good choice for a power reamer/trim setup. Perhaps if I got the chuck rebuild for it as it doesn't grip 223 size cases very well any more.   The Forster uses collets and can grip the cases very tightly.  Still get an occasional one I didn't tighten up well, but if that happens I just loosen/retighten and go back to trimming/reaming. 
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RangerJoe

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Reply with quote  #10 
I lubed the case neck and the reamer plenty... that isn't the problem. I'm convinced the 1-flute RCBS reamer isn't cut out (pun intended) for anything longer than a typical bottleneck cartridge neck.  I'll look for a multi-flute Forester reamer from somewhere that won't charge me 50% the tool cost for shipping.
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Brunosplace

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Reply with quote  #11 
I got the Forster reamer, and it does fit into the Hornady trimmer. Like Turbocavy, I am waiting for the barrel fix before I do any further case prep though.
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Turbocavy

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Reply with quote  #12 
I believe it was jnfarra in the other thread that said he would make custom reamers for this. I don't know how much but that's an option. I am thinking about it but i have most of my funds tied up in this already and can't go in for too much more.
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RangerJoe

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Reply with quote  #13 
.355 Forster reamer ($23.99), plus a couple other goodies, ordered from Brownells with free shipping for orders over $49. 
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willbird

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Reply with quote  #14 
The Brownells Edge is a good excuse to buy more from Brownells :-). It does cover aerosol cans which is nice :-)....it does not cover ammo, there is an extra charge for that.

Bill
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Hunter Big Jon

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Reply with quote  #15 
Ok guys need a little input. I don't have anything 357 Cal at all so I need to by everything. I only won't to buy one time. So I'm looking for what I need to do this right the first time . Can you guys tell me what the best stuff to buy to make brass from 223 and starline . A list a-z . This way when round 2 barrels become available I can have all my ducks in a row.
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wikster1983

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Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter Big Jon
Ok guys need a little input. I don't have anything 357 Cal at all so I need to by everything. I only won't to buy one time. So I'm looking for what I need to do this right the first time . Can you guys tell me what the best stuff to buy to make brass from 223 and starline . A list a-z . This way when round 2 barrels become available I can have all my ducks in a row.

I would suggest using starline untapered brass. Then you need:
-forster trimmer (just easier)
-forster .355 reamer (I think its for 9mm)
-power adapter for forster trimmer (optional)

If you want to use .223 converted:
-annealer (many different options to buy/build)
-custom expander, or multiple expanders to step up to 35 cal.
-trimmer (suggest forster)
-forster .355 reamer ( I think its for 9mm)
-power adapter for trimmer (optional)

I think thats all, someone tell me if I missed something. May not need .355 reamer depending what new reamer does, but for my barrel as it sits now this stuff is needed.

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Brunosplace

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Reply with quote  #17 
You will also need a set of 357 Mag/Max Dies and a 357 taper crimp die.

Taper Crimp dies (pick your favorite):
  • RCBS #: 18262
  • Lee #: 90781
  • Redding #: 85282
  • Lyman #: 7153101
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Moleman

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Reply with quote  #18 
 The starline brass just makes it much easier.  It's not practically free like 223/556 range pick up, but it is all the same so there is no mystery about what the case capacity is.   

223/556 I use a propane torch and old baking tray with 1/2" of water in it to anneal, self turned expander stems,  357 carbide die set, 357 Lyman taper crimp die, forster-trimmer- .355" reamer, debur tool, countersink to remove primer crimp if 556, RCBS case lube-pad-brush.  If you have a progressive and several of the same die sets you can set up the expanders in several dies so that the press spits out a ready to trim/ream case in one trip through.  Your case losses will be slightly higher but it's alot quicker. 
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wikster1983

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Reply with quote  #19 
Lee dies come with a taper crimp bullet seater die
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Brunosplace

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Reply with quote  #20 
For annealing cases, I use an Annealeez, and it works great!! Wife bought it for me for Christmas, and it is so much easier and consistent than a lot of other methods.

http://annealeez.com/dbprod/purchaseannealeez.asp

Get the small case kit if you load 300BLK or other short cartridges like it.
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RangerJoe

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Reply with quote  #21 
Converting .223/5.56x45mm brass absolutely requires annealing.  The Starline brass is not annealed... so having an annealer is a good idea either way.  I've recommended the Annealeez for years - done many 1,000 cases now with NO problem. 
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Moleman

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Reply with quote  #22 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wikster1983
Lee dies come with a taper crimp bullet seater die

Unless they've changed them, the crimp on my lee sets is more of a roll crimp than anything.  The Lyman is a true gentle taper crimp
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Hunter Big Jon

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Reply with quote  #23 
Thanks guys I got a annealer that I built when I started making wlv 277 brass. The thing works great.

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wikster1983

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Reply with quote  #24 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moleman
Unless they've changed them, the crimp on my lee sets is more of a roll crimp than anything.  The Lyman is a true gentle taper crimp
They call it a taper crimp and its woking for me, I guess thats all I really know. If I run into issues I will have to find something else I guess. I will keep an eye out and post any issues when I get a chance to shoot my ladders.

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jerdebson

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Reply with quote  #25 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter Big Jon
Thanks guys I got a annealer that I built when I started making wlv 277 brass. The thing works great.

Nice clean build. I want one too.

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Jerry

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