Modern Sporting Rifle Evolution
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Bajabusdoc

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Reply with quote  #1 
357 AR brass steps. Anneal. Expand 277 wolverine expander after one shot spray or lube of choice and set in sun. 308 expander. Lube and sun. 35 Whelen expander. Then trim

The annealing softens the brass neck  makes it more malleable and allows stretch and expansion, you only want to anneal to the shoulder and then no more than 1/4 inch. the rest of the case is work hardened and you want to keep it that way.  most neck splits are at the old shoulder or neck junction this is where the most stress is. if lots of neck splitting occurs anneal again between 277 and 308

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this is my 308 to 358 expander made from a bolt. if no splits at the 277 to 308 step use LUBRICATION and it then is one pass to go to 358

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Click image for larger version - Name: 0924171358.jpg, Views: 27, Size: 269.76 KB For expander here is mine Click image for larger version - Name: 0929170621.jpg, Views: 14, Size: 1.52 MB

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as per Moleman:
I make my 357AR cases from 223 cases and although it's labor intensive, they seem to last a good while unless I step on them or lose them.  Best of all 223/556 once fired is cheap.  Al in MI sent me a link to buffalo arms   https://www.buffaloarms.com/223-cylindrical-1-76long-cases-223cyl   at $1.30 each they're pricy but would just need trimmed and reamed.       A couple of guys have made the cases from 357Max brass which just involves changing the rimmed case to rimless, but I like using cheap 223 and 556 brass. So here's the steps:

 1. trim to 1.640"-1.650" and debur

 2. anneal

 3. lube inside the case and expand case mouth with skinny expander

 4. expand case body with blunt expander

 5. resize

 6. roll case shoulder wrinkle away (optional)

 7. turn necks/ream to .0105" case wall thickness

 8. trim to final length 1.595" and tumble

 9. load/shoot


  Any flaw in the case mouth of the parent case will result in a split, so the initial trim and debur really cuts down on losses. This batch of LC-13 cases probably would of been fine without turning/reaming, but I've had others like FC cases that wouldn't chamber without turning so I just turn them all. Really all you're reaming or turning off is where the base of the bullet would be. The two expander stems are made from a bolt (it's quick and easy) and some hardened drill rod.  They just fit into a Lee 38-357 powder through die body. After speaking with Al a bit I recently made a few new expander stems that seem to save a couple steps over my previous methods.  I hope to be able to test them out this summer making more 357AR cases. 357AR-caseforming2.JPG   

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Moleman

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Reply with quote  #2 
Looks great BAJA!    The last couple times I expanded some 5.56 cases up I did it in the progressive press with an empty slot between expanders so a brush with lube on it could be pushed into the cases to lube them. 
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RangerJoe

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Reply with quote  #3 
BBD - nice write up & pix; thanks!
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Bajabusdoc

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Reply with quote  #4 
Salt bath annealing set up

Addendum: I agree with RJ but if you have the lead melting pot...... And the counter top is a 1/4 inch thick gas welding back stop. Totally fire proof for 1000 degree molten salt spills from My son used to do ship weld inspection.



[20190120_115407][30591373_191845611609116_5115367806870749184_n][anneal]




And a picture of annealezz, and water bath
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RangerJoe

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Reply with quote  #5 
Everyone has their own budget & favorite flavor of ice cream.  For only a little more cash, the Annealeez seems lots easier, safer, and quicker.  Like I said, to each his/her own.  [biggrin]
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MGP

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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerJoe
Everyone has their own budget & favorite flavor of ice cream.  For only a little more cash, the Annealeez seems lots easier, safer, and quicker.  Like I said, to each his/her own.  [biggrin]

I agree the Annealeez is the way to go and for the money you will not get any better.
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