Modern Sporting Rifle Evolution
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kdbarker

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Reply with quote  #1 
As well as many of you here, I like to make use of the cheap and readily available military surplus spent brass.
spent brass stock 01sm.jpg 

Whether its 5.56, 7.62 or 9mm they all have one step that can't be overlooked during you case prep... dealing with the crimped primer pockets.
After trying different types of swagers and reamers, I finally found something that works good for me. I settled on reaming with a set of zero flute deburring tools. These deburring tools self center real nice without cutting into or otherwise marking up the inside of the primer pocket.

Zero Flute deburring tool, 5/16 at 100 degrees for 7.62NATO cases... Cuts the crimp off the top nice and clean without going too deep in the pocket.
PrimerPocketReamerLG01.jpg 

Weldon DB8 deburring tool at 90 degrees for the 5.56 and 9mm cases...
PrimerPocketReamerSM01.jpg 

I'd like to see what you use and your experience. Thanks


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RangerJoe

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Reply with quote  #2 
Like you, I've tried a number of tools. I keep going back to the RCBS primer pocket swage. I must have decrimped a couple 100k cases over the years... a royal PIA no matter what method I've tried.  I've never seen tools like yours before...

PS: I like your brass stash!  I can finally show my wife someone has MORE brass stored up than me! [rolleyes]

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bedlamite

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Reply with quote  #3 
I've thought about turning one on the lathe similar to your pics that fit the primer pocket and stopped at the correct depth, but the Vermont American 5 flute countersink bit I bought at Fleet Farm has been working great.
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Txhillbilly

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Reply with quote  #4 
I have always used a carbide primer pocket uniforming tool to remove the crimp in the brass. After depriming, I just use the uniforming tool in my cordless drill, and go to town on them.
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toagnt

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Reply with quote  #5 
I use a lyman primer pocket cleaner attached to my cordless does it quicker than the RCBS primer swag for me.
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Al in Mi

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Reply with quote  #6 
I bought a primer pocket swager for my 650 Dillon off ebay, works slicker than snot
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Rifter

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Reply with quote  #7 
I've tried swaging, and reaming, using tools from various makers.  I've come to the conclusion that swaging is unacceptable because it leaves ridges and uneven amounts of brass in place.  Brass can also rebound after swaging making it almost as difficult to seat a primer as it is when the crimp is still there.

The best reamer I've found is the Hornady screw-in bit they sell.  The kit consists of a screwdriver type handle and a large and a small bit.  The bits have a built in stop to prevent you from going too deep into the primer pocket, and make short work of every type of crimp I've run across so far.  The only type I won't use is the one that has the 4 stab slits around the primer pocket.  Swaging doesn't move the brass enough, and reaming leaves the brass between the sides of the pocket and the stab point too thin.  Primers also tend to catch on those thin walls when you try to seat them, even doing it by hand.

You can also chuck the bit up in your bench drill press, allowing you to process hundreds of cases in very short order, which is how I do it.  I also prime all cases by hand to ensure proper alignment and to prevent crushing primers from the excess leverage you get doing it with the press.

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mcintosh

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Reply with quote  #8 
I reload on a Hornady LocknLoad AP and I love their swage tool. It is specific to their press, but it runs just as fast as I can pull the handle.
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