Modern Sporting Rifle Evolution
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Livn358YETI

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In my quest for 6mm Mongoose load perfection, I decided to go through my stash of 223/5.56 brass and dedicate a particular headstamp to the mongoose. I had a pretty good amount of LC 16 so that's what I chose.

I have at least 3x as many "FC 223" headstamp brass with no year on them. This made me hesitant to dedicate them for accuracy loads since I can't confirm they were made in the same year. Is this a valid concern?

Have those of you that sort by headstamps noticed more consistency in your loads?

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RangerJoe

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Reply with quote  #2 
What I have noticed most, more than accuracy consistency, is brass forming consistency.  I.e., less variation in "spring back" when forming wildcats (6mm Mongoose, .277 Wolverine, x40, etc.) from sorted brass.  Better head-space consistency leads to better accuracy consistency!
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MDWS

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Reply with quote  #3 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Livn358YETI
Have those of you that sort by headstamps noticed more consistency in your loads?


Yes.

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Bajabusdoc

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Reply with quote  #4 
Various manufacturers various capacities... Not sure year to year variant in same manufacturers exist or if it is urban legend. I too am curious...
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wikster1983

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Reply with quote  #5 
Yep! I tried this out with my 24" wlv- LC13 - super consistant and gives me about a 1.5" group at 300 yards. My mongoose has only been worked up with new brass, for the same reasons. I can track the firings and keep procedures as consistent as I feel necessary. But I have had pretty decent luck with fc brass as well, but mostly used for plinking and hunting as I received 500 or so for free.
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kdbarker

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Reply with quote  #6 
I also sort my LC brass by date. After you have done everthing else right, and worked up the best load you can and still want a bit more consistency. One other trick I have used is to file a small line in the base of the cases, then index them all the same way through sizing and bullet seating, then index them the same way while you chamber each round (for hand feading only). Also HBN treatment of your barrel and bullets will help as well.
All this has some effect, and at this point you may start running into the law of diminishing returns, but you just have to weight the benifit and decide how much energy/resources you want to put into your rounds. Since most all of my shooting is punching paper (and not making much hunting rounds) I like to experiment with all this stuff.

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ussrangersm3

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Reply with quote  #7 
So far I only separate by manufacturer, what do you do if you have Hornady And there is no date? This is something I probably should start doing...
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RangerJoe

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Little or no commercial brass has headstamp dates, but virtually all US GI brass does.  Sort by what you can...
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Livn358YETI

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Reply with quote  #9 
FWIW John, I am not a fan of hornady brass. I have found that their priper pockets are soft and loosen up really quickly if your running warm-hot loads.
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Airaddict

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Reply with quote  #10 
I personally never really sorted brass. I did however buy batches of hornady brass for my 243 bench gun and would keep them together so i could easily keep track of the number of times they were loaded. I dont run hot loads, but if i did i would prob reform some mil 7.62 brass for extra life. My 243 hunting rifle gets fed only nickle brass.

Everything else, 300blk, 9mm, 223, gets thrown together and used as needed.

Now that i have a 277wlv, im going to sort that brass since i wont know where "hot" begins on the load scale. Once i do learn where the limits are in my rifle and that the brass can handle it without excessive pressure signs, ill prob stop sorting. Luckily majority of brass i have to convert to 277 is FC anyway since i bought a 1000 processed 223 range brass a while back.

Has anyone had personal experience with the pressure spike between commercial brass and mil brass because of brass thickness?
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